Hampi, a anglicized version of the Kannada Hampe ( derived from Pampa, which is an old name for Tungbhadra river). No I don’t want to preach wiki now, its what we also came to know in the month of September, 2014, time when we started planning our trip to most searched location in Karnataka state. Although I have always loved traveling but I was never a big fan of visiting places of historical or religious importance ( No offense to King Ashoka) . This time around, I found myself in the company of some travel enthusiasts who dated back to Harappan civilization 😉 . I started reading and listen to what people had about this place and learnt that there is going to be a lot of walking to explore this place.I had found what interests me.
We booked our bus tickets to Hospet, its a town around 12 Kms from Hampi bazaar. Since there are not many places to stay in Hampi , most of the people stay in Hospet which is also on the Southern banks of river Tungbhadra.When it came to find a place to rest, we were little out of luck since most of the places were already booked. Nevertheless, when destination is calling , there is no looking back. We decided to book a place on the north back of river, this area was Kishkinda ( the realm of monkey god from Ramayana). Don’t worry, now its all under human control with a decent resort which also houses a small swimming pool (what a sad irony, a swimming pool on the banks of a mighty river). I told you its all under human control now.Now we had bus tickets and a place to rest for next 2 days.We started off at 11 in night and within few minutes our Volvo 9400 started rolling full steam ahead.”Don’t expect to catch up lots of sleep” , we all had this running on our minds since we had to get down early in the morning.Last I checked on that night, people were trying to sleep walk out of the bus, heck with the early morning arrival. It was 7 in the morning and Sun was out but our bus still running as if driver’s just got his permanent license.Next thing was a halt at a restaurant in Dharwad to freshen-up and grab some breakfast.We stretched our body a little bit and it was back on the roller coster ride of our bus for next 3 hours.
We reached Hospet around 10 AM and next thing people wanted to do was check-in their facebook status and of-course in the resort as well.We came out on the road and started talking to some auto drivers and to our astonishment, they were not answering in their local language( a pattern found in southern Indian towns).We received some startling information from them including that we need to cross Tungbhadra river by boat to reach Kishkinda but since authorities have opened Tungbhadra Dam gates , it has flooded the river and boat service has stopped.Not a great situation to be in because you don’t know how much time it will take for water to calm down and service to start. Auto drivers watching a group of perplexed beings had a suggestion and they were ready to take us to resort by-road.We didn’t had an option so we tried to negotiate as hard we could and them boarded the wagons.Hospet treated us well, there was not a lot traffic nor people were fooling outsiders.We were on the auto rickshaw for good 1 hr, yeah we realized they had to back on the same Highway for some 20 kms then they took a turn towards area known as Kishkinda.We were tired but view outside was always intriguing and thrilling.
We were suddenly walking into a city of boulders. 100 years ago, it would be a scene from city destroyed by some cosmic rains of meteorite. However, after a century of volcanic activities and erosion these giant rock structures have taken up interesting shapes and serve as living grounds for men and animals, thanks to evolving nature and ceased-evolving humans .Most of the area is a big rocky plateau with lots of green patches playing hide and seek with small lakes joining them in the game.We kept on venturing into this jungle of rocks and sheer captivity of entire area kept playing the role of a time machine. Next moment, we hit a dead end and on the right hand side, sneaking out of boulder hills was our destination, Kishkinda resort. Having travelled to many such isolated destinations and with experience from some of the most gloomy and lifeless guest houses, I looked around with curiosity and stamped that this place was alive and full of action. Its a resort with all modern amenities from a city, a restaurant, water park, big grass lawn with two horses running around, an open dining place and oh yes most importantly they do have some decent rooms to offload yourself and crash.It wasn’t a bad decision at the end only if we don’t have to take road again to reach Hampi.
Sorry if I missed to highlight that we are here to visit Hampi, not vacationing in a resort.We picked some maps from the reception and quickly got onto the task of marking our destinations for next 2 days.It was already sun down by the time we finished lunch and took a power nap.Overall, it was a productive day since we were just on the other side of the river from destination Hampi.We sat in the lawn and had long conversation about the plan for the next day. Finally, we did the closing and everyone went to their room excited and full of inquisitiveness . We had everything right on track except one spoiler card, Dam water flooding the river.Till late night we had no certainly if we would get a boat to cross the river next morning.It was an early morning and we knew what we need to get started. I went to the manager and he mentioned that they can arrange auto rickshaw to the river crossing point but the water has still not receded and boat services is stalled.It gave everyone a sunken feeling, other way out was an hour long road trip again 😦 . We heard everyone and then I decided to go and take a look at the river crossing with another auto rickshaw who came to drop another guest.After talking to the driver I realized that there was a nexus going on between hotels/resorts and auto drivers to force people to take road and end up paying heavily to rickshaw people.They didn’t wanted every guest to to go to river and take boat to Hampi. Fortunately, I was already on my way.
There were forlorn ruins of ancient structures lying scattered over the landscape of giant boulders with banana and paddy fields adding to magical atmosphere, it was mesmerizing.On the way, I also found lots of small guest houses and home stays ,mostly populated with western tourists and hippies.A quick glance was full of questions with rays of convictions that it might be a great place to spend some time, eat, drink and cast away.Well, it turned out to be a fact once I talked to a guy waiting for the boat on the river crossing.I went to some boat owners and they hesitantly agreed that they should be able to venture out in a while given some extra money.That was a good news in the morning.I immediately called my friends and they were there in 20 mins. In the meantime I talked to a boat owner and paid him some extra money and also arranged a boat ride back by 4 in the evening.In normal days, they charge just 20 Rs but on that day there were asking for 100 bucks and many foreign visitors were falling prey to their trap.
It was the time we truly started our journey to Hampi.I may be calling it a journey but its just 150 mtrs crossing across the river.From the north bank, you can clearly see the towering Virupaksha temple and ancient inscriptions.On the other side of the river, there are ghats for devotees to take bath and conduct puja.As the boat started steering across the water, we could experience the torrential power of the mighty Tungbhadra.
We landed on the southern ghat and started walking towards Virupaksha temple complex which is located on the south bank.It’s a sprawling campus with ancient temples and structures like a mandapam, ante chambers,pillared hall,lamp posts and towered gateways.There were a lot of pilgrims standing in queue for darshan of Shiva statue, which stands intact inside the mandapam.There are architectural marvels all around you and tells the story of wisdom and glory of ancient Vijayanagram empire.We clicked some photographs from the courtyard since camera is not allowed in the sanctum area.As we walked towards the east entrance, we saw a decorated elephant giving divine blessing to visitors and some of my friends immediately queued up.It was rather a enthralling sight.From the courtyard we could a see giant hill on the south side, its known as Hemakutta Hills.We started walking towards the hill, its a little steep climb to the top of the hill.From there it was a splendid view of the river and ruins site.The hills is flat expanse of rocky sheet with tall wide stonewalls.We learnt that Hemakutta hill is also the best location to see sunrise and sunset.You can also see the entire campus of Virupaksha temple from the top.We started walking down the south side of the hill, at the foothill we found a monolithic Ganesha statute known as Sasivekalu Ganesha.As we moved out of the shrine, we were on the main road leading to Hampi bazaar.You would need more than 1 hour to cover this entire expanse.
We had a map of all the major sites we wanted to visit during the day.It was a hot day but not very humid.I with one of my friend walked down for 10 mins to reach Hampi Bazaar and went to a bike rental place and asked for 3 bikes but here again we fell just short of hitting the plan and all the bikes were gone.We activated plan B and hired an autorickshaw who agreed to show all the marked sites for 400 Rs.We knew it was little steep but we didn’t wanted to waste any more time.We started from the hustle-bustle of Hampi Bazaar.Remember to pick a guide book or a Hampi site map.For a casual traveller, its difficult to cover all the sites in 2-3 days.A little more about Hampi Bazaar, its a kilometer long market at the foothill of Matanga hill with shops and restaurants on both the sides of the street.What belonged to rich merchants and nobles once, today provides shelter to villagers as they have made ancient pavilions their home. Vehicle movement is regulated but the two wheelers are allowed on the streets.At the east end of the street, there is a monolithic nandi(bull) statute housed in a two story pavilion. This attracts tourist owing to its giant size and equally gigantic boulder view in backdrop.
So we started off from Hampi Bazaar and our first destination was Vithala Temple Complex, it was around 5 Kms from bazaar and it took 20 mins for us to reach there.There were buses plying on this route as well.Road conditions are good but you have both vehicles and tourists walking down the road, so it slows you down.We reached the complex and saw a big queue for tickets and people waiting for electric carts taking visitors to main temple.We took the tickets and soon we were on humpty-dumpty ride to the temple.Tickets are 10Rs for Indian citizens and 5USD for foreign nationals.It was short beautiful scenic ride to the destination with boulder hills around us and lots of missing and damaged pillars leaves you wondering about the history and people from that age.We stopped outside the complex and realized that we were at epicenter of Hampi’s attraction.It was the most extravagant architectural showpiece of Hampi.At the center of the complex stands the flagship attraction, the stone chariot, which must be the most photographed piece of art in Hampi.I waited around half n hour circling the chariot for a good shot but in vain, people were thronging on the structure for customary photo opportunity as if it will come alive any moment and they will ride on to the age of Vijayanagaram.We were suggested that early morning 8:30 is the best time to visit if you want some clicks sans crowd.On the chariot, you can still see the remains of the painting on the carvings.In front of the chariot was Maha-Mantapa with awe-inspiring composite pillars, they are richly carved giant monolithic pillars.You would need more than an hour to cover this entire complex.Rickshaw had guy told us that there is another way to walk along the river side to reach Vithala Complex from Hampi Bazaar.It was getting hotter as day was progressing, we had some ice cream while standing in the queue and soon were back on the ride to the main entrance.
Next landmark on the map was Queen’s bath, this is first ruined structure before you enter royal enclosure. The whole building is made with a veranda around facing a big open pond at the middle. Projecting into the pond are many balconies.This was royal pleasure complex for kings and queens.There is also a toilet facility near this structure. We were out quickly out of this structure and on our way to royal enclosure, which is further north the dusky road.This is a area houses some ancient and splendid architecture and ruins.Some of our friends were really tired and they decided to take a break at the entrance of enclosure.When you enter this enclosure, you will see whats is called as Mahanavmi Dibba(House of victory), its a giant elevated structure decorated with ancient carvings on the sides, first look its gives an appearance of some alien landing station.There are stairs to reach the top and from there you can view the vastness of the entire region.There are other important attraction in this enclosure like King’s Audience Hall and Underground chamber.We decided to enter the chamber and as you step down few stairs, its pitch dark and smelled of bat’s droppings.We started moving with cellphone light but soon it started turning little creepy with dark holes in the wall and broken structures under feet.We made our way out as soon as we hit a dead end of the chamber.\
We started our journey to the next spot, it known as Zenena Enclosure and it used to be a secluded area reserved for women.This harem houses some interesting highlights, major attractions are Lotus Mahal, Watch Tower and Elephant’s stable.You can see three watch towers on the corners, they are built in Indo-Islamic architecture.Elephant’s stable was a major tourist attraction, there are 11 domed tall chambers used for parking royal elephants.Domes were well decorated and designed in Islamic style. It was already 3 PM when we entered this enclosure and it was very very crowded owing to some small eating joints at the entrance where you can find some traditional South Indian food like lemon rice and sambar rice .Thanks to the heat and vastness, make sure that you are carrying enough drinking water all the time.
We knew we need to pace up a little bit if we want to catch the boat back to Kishkinda at 4 PM.After all the fix up with boat owners, we didn’t wanted to miss boat and take road trip again.Rickshaw guy took us on a shortcut route connecting to Hampi main road.On the way to main road, we saw some temples and ruins of granaries and a old mosque.At the junction of main road, there is an ancient Shiva temple, it was exuberating mysticism from every angle and though in hurry we decided to pay a visit.It was just me and one of my friend who decided to go inside, it was dark and the temple alleys were filled with rain water, there was a fishy smell of stagnant water, it was bat’s dropping again.We found a temple guardian waiting at the entrance and he was willing to take us deep into the dungeon of the temple.We slowly started wading through water with guide telling us the depth and support at every step.We moved in for a 5 mins and there was a small sanctum with a almost submerged shivalinga with partial face outside water surface.We touched it and prayed the god of strength and power.We directed our torch light to ceiling and found some really awe-inspiring piece of art carved on the roof.
Wading through some more knee deep water we came out of the temple premises and continued our journey to Hampi ghat to catch our ‘never so glorified’ boat ride.After a 15 mins ride, we were on the river crossing.We waited for 10 mins for boat to come ashore and realized that another battle ensued between owners of ferry and coracle.Whats a Coracle? its a country made circular boat to cross the river.Its made of bamboo,cane and plastic sheet.It has been used for ferrying people since ancient times with some stories going back to over 500 years.However, this ride is not for weak-hearted as it goes circling fighting its way through strong river water.Luckily, it was sorted out soon and we were on our way to Kishkinda.There was another Rickshaw waiting on north ghat to take us to the resort.We reached Kishkinda around 5 PM and there was still some day light left for us.We decided to explore the area and locals helped us find some more tourist attraction and highlights of this region.We zeroed in on a place known as Anjaneya Hills, its a place of spiritual and religious significance.According to Hindu mythology, its believed to be birth place of Hanuman.Route to the top is stepped and its a moderately difficult climb.There are no shops on the way or at the top, so please buy some water/cold drinks/snacks at the base.It took us around 30 mins to reach the top and it was almost dark but the temple was still open.There was wonderful breeze which took all the tiredness away and we sat on a rock edge looking at the vast terrains and river with lots of questions in our minds.After spending some 20 mins, we started climbing down.Once we reached the base we had some snacks and water and started off to our resort.It was a eventful and equally enlightening day for us.Back in resort, we got refreshed, ordered our dinner and after some stroll and chat all of us went to bed.It felt like sleep for the eternity.
Next day morning we were checking out of resort so we were not rushing on to anything, started our day casually with some fun and thrilling water slides in the water park.Got ready by 10 AM and planned to cover some more spots in Hampi.We also had a bus to catch at 6 PM from Hospet on the same day.Some of us started with a small trek up the hill from resort, we were told there is a big lake at the top and a small dam to control water flow downstream where the resort is located.We reached there, clicked some photographs and came down while watching the magnificent paddy and coconut fields on the way.We decided to cross the river and spend some time in Hampi before catching a bus to Hospet from Hampi Bus Stand.
We still had lots of time with us, so we asked rickshaw to stop on the streets of what looks like a hangout place for all foreign visitors.Pretty soon we had the answer, this place has all resemblance to streets of Goa, with nice small shacks, rows of dormitories and best of all , awesome food. Pretty much everything an explorer need.You can also rent bikes and cycles from shops on this street and roam around in the Anegundi area.There are lots of small shopping corners on this streets selling artifacts, clothes and jewelry.Many restaurants here don’t accept card so remember carrying enough cash else be ready to pay 20% of cash to some shop owners who accept card and give you cash in exchange.We decided to hang our boots(for a day) at one of the restaurant named Gouthami Bakers and Restaurant.It was a typical hippie destination bathed in spiritual flavors of world.There were tourists from Europe and US, chilling out and having some good time smoking joints and blunts.We found a table laid out on the ground with sitting area around it and ordered some drinks and food.It was one of the best food we had in a long time with varieties serving people from Israel to Caribbean.We stayed there for good 3 hrs and then started off to Hampi Bazaar.
After crossing the river, I thought of buying a souvenir and soon found what I had to buy, Its a long crafted designer beer opener made of iron.It was already 4 PM so we decided to catch an auto to Hospet.It took us almost an hour to reach Hospet .We reached bus stand on time and a memorable trip was coming to end, but not without preparing our mind and soul for our next trip. I may have my own destination list to cover in my lifetime but I won’t mind a travel to place of historical and religious significance next time .Well ,that just added few more backpacking and flashpacking trips to the itinerary 🙂
Keep Travelling !!
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